James Suckling: 100 Points
This is a beautifully complex wine. Flinty, even smoky on the nose, with preserved lemon, quince, smoked almond, sea urchin, olive and white pepper, as well as some mushroom, pie crust and salted caramel. Energetic, yet with a dense and oily palate. Lots of power. Sleek bubbles. So many layers to ponder over, with a long, umami finish. It’s Montrachet in nature and greatness. Love the roundness to the texture. Unique. 54% chardonnay and 46% pinot noir. Blend of 1999, 1997, 1996. 21 years on the lees. 7g/L dosage. Will be released September 2022. Only a few 100 magnums. Drink on release or hold.
Wine Advocate: 96 Points
The second of the two late-disgorged releases as of this writing, the NV Grand Siècle Les Réserves N°20—offered exclusively in magnums after extended maturation sur lattes—is a blend of the 1999, 1997 and 1996 vintages, predominantly anchored in the youngest. It comprises 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir. Disgorged in July 2023 with a dosage of six grams per liter, it wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of lemon confit, candied pear and burnt buttered toast, enriched by hints of Sichuan pepper and coriander seed. Medium- to full-bodied, it possesses a deep, concentrated fruit core, underpinned by bright acidity carrying it through to a long, chalky finish. The rich, mature 1999 vintage appears to lend breadth, while the 1996 imparts freshness and structure; the contribution of the 1997 is almost exclusively Chardonnay. Details aside, the result is harmonious and seamless.
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