Altos Las Hormigas - Malbec Gualtallary 2019 (750ml)

Tim Atkin 98Pts

Concentration is easy to achieve in Argentina,' says Alberto Antonini, 'but texture is much harder.' All I can say is that he has succeeded here on this best-ever release from Altos Las Hormigas, which brings Burgundian levels of grace and complexity to Malbec. Scented, hauntingly graceful and complex with remarkable focus and depth, a hint of oak, sweet red fruits and a lingering finish. Exceptional winemaking.

Concentration is easy to achieve in Argentina,' says Alberto Antonini, 'but texture is much harder.' All I can say is that he has succeeded here on this best-ever release from Altos Las Hormigas, which brings Burgundian levels of grace and complexity to Malbec. Scented, hauntingly graceful and complex with remarkable focus and depth, a hint of oak, sweet red fruits and a lingering finish. Exceptional winemaking.

The 2019 Malbec Appellation Gualtallary comes from specific soils, two small three-hectare plots in the Cerros del Jaboncillo, where they find more caliche and limestone in Tupungato Winelands. They believe this place transmits the maximum expression of limestone to Malbec, giving a structured wine with fine-grained tannins with the wilderness from Gualtallary. It fermented in small concrete vats with indigenous yeasts at some 26 degrees Celsius for 20 days. Eighty-five percent of the volume matured in untoasted 3,500-liter French oak foudres for 20 months while the rest was kept in concrete. They sell it a little later than the Altamira because they feel Gualtallary needs a little more time in bottle; therefore, they are now offering the 2019 vintage, a very balanced wine that talks about the place where it was born. This is vibrant and expressive, with a complex nose and especially a lively palate with effervescent acidity and very fine-boned with elegant but firm tannins (they say "Serralunga-like" tannins). I find the recurring iron-like note of blood and fresh meat here too, intermixed with the wild flowers, herbs and spices. This has depth and complexity, and if Altamira is Barbaresco, Gualtallary is Barolo... 10,000 bottles were filled in January 2022.

Dense and powerful, but in a very fresh and scented way, with violet, hibiscus, oyster-shell and hot-stone notes to the black and blue fruit. Almost a bit gamey with some wet earth. Full-bodied and quite dense on the palate. There is volume, with succulents and real structure, and, of course, some fine austerity. Quite puristic and intellectual, far from flattering. Give it some time to fully unwind itself. Best from 2025.